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This time, as I promised, I made a very simple instruction, which should be no challenge, even for a sewing first-timer. Yes, this is me on the photo above. Ekhm,, I can’t say that I am thrilled to be my own model. Here’s some explanation on why you see me, instead of Justyna or Ewa, on the opening photo:

I had only two and a half months to write my „Sewing book”. In order to make it, and to make it good, I had to give up all others activities. So I had no money to support my design studio. After sending material for the book to the publishing house, I packed all my stuff into a truck, and then squeezed it into my small 1 bedroom apratment. There is almost no place left. To make photos for tutorial I lift my bed to a vertical position and move some small furnitures around – the things we do to sew ;). Unfortunatelly there is not even one squared meter of white wall left to use as a background for a photo (that is why I used my poor photoshop skills to replace my bookstand with some white wall from Goggle graphic), not to mention a place for a photoshoot of girls wearing my clothes. So this time I am the model, well specifically, my top part, and in next weeks expect tutorials for small accessories , which do not take much space to sew and need no photo with a human.

Let’s start with todays topic, a hooded scarf – we will be sewing it on all my workshops connected with promotion of the book. In the end all the participants will get a personalized print which says „Hand made by (name)” this will be fun :).





  • 0,5 meter of knitted fabric for outer layer, it should be at least 155 cm wide (if you use thinn fabric 150 will be enough – scarf will be a little tighter).
  • 0,5 meter of knitted fabric in other color for lining – the same width as outer layer. IMPORTANT! At least one of the layers should be made of fleece or brushed terry 300-360 gsm in order for the scarf and hood to keep the shape. We do not want it to be flabby.
  • Paper for patterns, ruler, measuring tape and a pencil.
  • Pins, threads, scissors and tailors chalk.


  • Metal eyelets 1,5 cm of inner diameter. When you buy the eyelets, there should be some kind of a primitive attaching-device included, and you probably will need a hammer.
  • String for the hood, 110 cm long, and a safety pin small enough to put it through metal eyelets.
  • If you own a ScanNcut or other plotter then to make a print prepare flex or flock foil.
  • If you will make print by hand you need transparent, self adhesive foil, knife (a one in stick would be best), self-healing cutting mat, Paint for fabrics and a paintbrush.





  • This is universal size, but you can check if it is ok for you. Cut patterns out of fabric and pin them, try it on. You can always make it smaller.
  • Draw a rectangle 65 cm x 36 cm. If your fabric is thick make it longer – 70 cm.
  • On the left side draw all the sections marked by rouge color on the illustration (don’t forget about 2 cm at bottom).
  • Turquoise outlines are straight lines. Keep in mind that there is an right angle (90 degree) in the corner on top of the hood.
  • Lime colored outlines are curves.
  • Seam allowances are already included in the pattern.
  • The circle with a cross inside is a mark for the eyelet position.
  • This form is half of the hooded-scarf. fold the fabric in half so, that right side of fabric is inside, and cut this pattern out of two layers. This way you will get left and right half. Cut out two halves of each fabric.





Put two elements of the outer layer together, with their right sides touching. Sew up the edge of the hood. Do the same with the lining.




Attach metal eyelets to each of the halves, do it only on the outer layer of the hood. You will find instruction of attaching the eyelets in one of the previous posts: LINK.




Now put outer layer and lining together, with the right side of the fabrics inside. The seams on top edge and bottom edge should cling to each other. Sew up the top and the bottom edge.




Turn the hood to the right side.




Now, a step that is not necessary, but I do recommend it, because the shawl will be better arranged, after wrapping it around your neck. To avoid the loop on the scarf, after you wrap it around your head, do the loop on it before sewing. Wrap the left arm of the hood by 360 degrees: curl the bottom edge up (picture 1). And again fold up the edge, which is now at the bottom (picture 2).




Now look at the right arm, start turning it inside out.




Turn it inside out so much, that you can hide the left arm inside.




Align together the edges of the left and the right arm.




Fasten together the edges of the left and the right arm. Pay attention to the seams between the outer layer and the lining, they should overlap in both arms.




Sew up the edges, leaving a 10 cm long slit. Turn the hood to the right side through the slit. Fold edges of the slit to the inside and sew it by hand. You can do it also with sewing machine, but the seam will be visible. Sew on the very edge of the fabric.


14-komino-kaptur r


Make a stitch along the edge of the hood, 4 cm from the brink, to connect the top layer and the lining. This way you will create a tunnel for the string.




Wrap a thick thread around the tip of the string to prevent it from unraveling. Pull the string inside the tunnel using a safety pin.




And the cherry on top – personalised print. You can read about how to make a print using adhesive foil and paint in on of the previous posts: LINK.

If you own ScanNcut you can make it using flex or flock foil (as I did) you will find more information in the same post where I have attached the eyelet: LINK

And the hooded scarf is done! Put the hood on your head, then wrap the excess of shawl around your neck in such a way, that there is no loop on it. Isn’t it a great Christmas hand-made gift?  I’m short on cash lately, so this year everyone gets a hooded scarf :) Take care!




This tutorial was made for you by Janek: