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Today, as I promised, we will sew carrot pants with the stripes on the side. This is a level up, compared to the last tutorial. So if you come to this blog for the first time, I encourage you to check out the previous post, in which Monika showed how to sew simple shorts with pockets LINK. After reading the last one, this one will be much easier to understand. I show the process on ladies pants, but you should know that mens pants are made same way.

This is for sure the most complicated thing so far on my blog. But don’t worry, I don’t neglect beginners – next two tutorials will be really simple. First (planned for 28’th of November) is about hood-scarf, and the second (planned for middle of December) is about etui for Ipad and notebook. Some inspiration for handmade Christmas gifts. So come back here in a few days. And now let’s get started!

 

PREPARE:

  • Knitted fabric. Best will be some kind of fleece or knitted terry fabric 1,5 m wide. You will need length of the pants + 40 cm (for pockets and waist band).
  • Ca 0,4 m of lining for the pockets.
  • 1 m of wide rubber band for the waist band, and 1,5 m long string.
  • Metal eyelets (with gromet plier or some kind of device to attach eyelets – it should be included, when you buy the eyelets), and a hammer.
  • Paper for patterns, pencil, ruler and measuring tape.
  • Tailors chalk, scissors, pins, threads and safety pin.

 

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PATTERN:

You can read about how to copy pattern from your favourite pants in one of the previous posts: LINK. On illustrations below I will show how to adjust size and shape of your pants, if you want to change it. Of course, easiest way is to copy pattern from pants that don’t need any adjustment. I will give you measurements of Laura’s pants (Laura is my muse, from the photo) but you should adjust them to your size.

STEP 1:

To tighten the pants in waist and hips, you have to move the outseam of both legs, it would be the best to move it by same amount in each leg. On the illustration the first one is the back leg, second one is the front leg. Measure  A,B,C and D starting at the rise (that arc in crotch):

  • A + B shoud be equal to 1/2 of circumference of your body in place where the waist-band of this pants will be. If you wish to sew a loose pants, add a few centimeters, the rubber band sewn in the waist belt will gather excess of the fabric anyway. A can be a little bigger than B, but it don’t have to. In Laura’s pants A = 22 cm, B = 21 cm.
  • C + D shoud be equal (or bigger, if your pants ought to be loose) to 1/2 of hips circumference. C should be bigger than D by at least 2 cm (buttocks). Laura’s pants C = 27 cm, D = 25 cm.

To change the width of the legs you have to appoint the straight grain (info how to do it, is in the previous post LINK). Set your desired circumference of the leg in knee and bottom by folding measuring tape around your leg. Divide this circumference into back leg width and front leg width. Back leg should be 2-4 cm wider than the front leg:

  • Carrot pants like those Laura is wearing: Knee circumference is 40 cm, divided into  E = 21 cm, F = 19 cm. Bottom circumference is much smaller only 30 cm, divided into  G = 16 cm, H = 14 cm.
  • On the illustration you see straight legs: Knee circumference is smaller than in carrot pants 36 cm divided into  E = 19 cm, F = 17 cm. There is not so much difference in bottom circumference 33 cm, divided into G = 17,5 cm, F = 15,5 cm.

Appoint the new width of the leg at a straight angle (90 degree) to the straight grain. Keep the straight grain exactly in the middle of the width.

After adjusting the legs prepare pattern for the waist belt:

  • I is double width of the belt. It should be 0,5 wider than the rubber band. My rubber is 5 cm wide, so I = 11cm.
  • Length of the belt is equal to size of top edge of the pants =  2 x (A+B).

 

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STEP 2:

  • Choose width of the stripe on the side. My is L = 4,5 cm. Cut off of each leg a stripe that is half width of the L.
  • Next draw a back yoke. The Best is bigger at the rise J = 6 cm, and smaller at the hip K = 3 cm. Don’t cut it off yet.

STEP 3:

  • Design shape of back pocket. My is 12 cm wide and 14 cm high.
  • Make even the size of the outseam of font and back leg, measuring from bottom (M). Prepare pattern for the side stripe ( M x L).
  • Plan the shape of front pocket opening, and of the pocket bag – more details in the next step.

 

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STEP 4:

  • Set the size of the placket in the back pocket (the dark grey element) my is 5 cm. Add a mirror image of this placket on top of the pocket.
  • Set the size of the front pocket opening. My is N =  5 cm, O = 14 cm.
  • Set the size of the placket (the light blue element). My is 4 cm.
  • Set the size of the pocket bag – the dark grey element. Put your hand on the pattern as if you were puting it inside pocket, and set proper size of pocket bag. My is 26 cm high and 15 cm wide.

STEP 5:

  • Time to separate all the elements of the pocket. Redraw to a new paper sheet the shapes of the pocket bag, this will be made of the lining. The darkest grey element is main pocket bag, this layer will be in contact with your hip. Mid grey element is smaller part of pocket bag – this layer will be in contact with the leg of the pants.
  • After making instruction from the next step, cut off part of front leg, along the rouge line.

STEP 6:

  • Prepare pattern for the placket. Redraw on the new paper sheet the shape of the placket and add mirror image of it – as on the illustration.
  • The last part of the pocket is the facing. It will be made of main fabric. It should be part of the hip and the top edge of the leg, and it should be a little deeper than the placket – as the mid grey element on the illustration.

STEP 7:

O my God, my head’s spinning. This was a struggle, but we made it through. Add 1 cm seam allowance all around each element (dark grey outline ). On the last picture I show suggested way of placing elements on the fabric folded in half. If you will fold fabric in half so, that right side is inside, and fabric is more elastic widthwise, you will cut both: the right and the left leg at once. But if you decide to cut one layer, remember to reverse patterns in order to cut right and left elements. Let’s sew!

 

 

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SEWING:

Start with the front pocket. Fold the placket in half and make some decorative stitchings along it. Prepare the placket, smaller pocket bag and the front leg.

 

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Pin the placket to the leg in place where the pocket opening should be. Pin it so, that the top edge of the pants and edge of the placket cross exactly in a place where the seam will be made (where the pin is on the photo).

 

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Put smaller pocket bag on it, with right side of the lining touching the right side of the pants. Sew all three layers together.

I am sewing first on a regular machine, and then I overcast seam allowances with overlock. I make it in order to keep at least 0,7 cm wide seam allowances, because I will make decorative stitchings on the right side of the fabric, and they look much better if there are few layers of fabric sewn together. That is why I need seam allowances bigger than just the width of the overlock seam. Otherwise I would sew only with overlock.

 

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Now fold the pocket bag to the side and iron the seam. Next fold it under the pants, and fold the placket to the side. Iron the seam and make a decorative stitching along the placket.

 

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Now prepare the rest of the pocket elements. Overcast the edge of the facing (the one that is inside the pocket, not the top edge, and not the hip edge). Now put it on the bigger pocket bag so, that top edge and the hip edge of both are align. Sew it up only on the overcasted edge (where the pins are). Next prepare the front leg with the placket.

 

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Put both elements so, that the facing will fill the missing part of the front leg. Pin all layers on the edges of the placket. Pocket bags underneath should align. Sew them up, only on the longest edge – as on the photo.  Pocket is ready! Do the same with the other front leg.

 

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Now it’s time for the back leg. Sew the back leg and the yoke together. Iron seam allowance to the the yoke and make decorative stitching on the right side of fabric.

 

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Prepare the pocket. I will leave raw hems, but you can overcast them as Monika did in the previous post, or fold them by 1 cm to the left side. But first fold the placket of the pocket from the left side to the right side and sew up the edge. Place the pocket on the back, it should be closer to the hip than to the rise. Sew it to the pants. Do the same with the other leg.

 

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Prepare front leg, side stripe and back leg. Sew up the stripe and the front leg (my stripe is a little bit longer – I do it always just in case something goes wrong).

 

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Iron the seam so, that seam allowances are on the side stripe, make decorative stitching on the right side of the stripe.

 

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Sew up the back leg and the stripe same way as in the previous step. Do the same with other parts. Now you have two layers left and right. Put both layers one on another, with the right side of the fabric inside. The front legs should align, and the back legs should align. Sew up the front rise and the back rise (crotch arc – where the pins are on the photo).

 

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After sewing the rise, you can make the fly-mock stitching on the right side of the pants, at the front rise, but it is not necessary.

 

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Now put inseams together and sew them up. Pay attention to the rise seams in crotch. The front rise seam and the back rise seam should meet.

 

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Even the bottom of the legs if it is necessary. Overcast the edge with overlock, and double fold it to make cuffs. To prevent them from unrolling steam iron them, or sew by hand in few places.

 

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And now it is time for the waist belt. Mark the middle of the width and the middle of the length of the belt. Plan where you will attach the eyelets – they should be in the middle of the lower half, as you will fold the belt in half lengthwise. Remember that at the bottom edge you will use 1 cm to make a seam. You can learn how to attach the eyelets in one of the previous posts .

 

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When eyelets are attached, fold the stripe in half widthwise and sew up shorter edges. Leave a slit, through which you will put rubber band inside the belt. If eyelets are on the bottom half of the belt, then the slit should be on the top half of the belt.

 

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After sewing it up, fold and iron allowances to the sides and make stitchings along them.

 

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Now fold the belt in half lengthwise, and iron it.

 

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Pin the belt around top edge of the pants in such a way, that the raw edges of the pants and the belt are touching. The eyelets should touch the right side of the pants, and should be placed in the middle of front. After sewing, iron the belt up. Put the rubber band inside by the means of a safety pin, through the slit in the belt. Sew up rubber ends flat and hide all of it inside the belt. And the final touch is the string – put it inside also using a safety pin.

 

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Carrot pants with the side stripe are ready!! Oh Heavens, that was the longest tutorial on this blog. Thank God it is finished. As I promissed, next two will be really easy. So good luck at sewing machines and see you next time!

 

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This tutorial was prepared by Janek:

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