Are you freezing too? Well the summer is already over. Now we’ve got the “Polish golden autumn” here. Actually I’m really happy about it but why it’s got to be so cold?! These days I’m drowning in the amount of changes and what goes along with it – in the amount of work to do. Somewhere between painting the walls in new design studio, working on tutorials for the Juki exclusivity, redecorating the blog and heading the curses, I have made it to find some time and prepare something new for you :) <happy> Today I’ve got something that will keep you warm : a hat, a tube scarf and mittens. Next in this month I’ll have an autumn dress sewing instruction for you. And if everything goes well ,in November me, Gosia and Zbychu will be serving you a tutorial after tutorial. So let’s get it started !
You’ll need :
A hat: measure your head circumference. To make the hat not too loose, decrease the circumference 2-8 cm. The more elastic the fabric the more you should reduce its size. The length of the hat is all-purpose.
Prepare a paper form. Draw a rectangle with the width approximate to your reduced head circumference and 20 cm high. Divide its upper edge (the one which is as long as your head size) into 6 identical parts. On top of each part draw in a 10 cm high equilateral triangle above – you’ll receive a 30 cm high crown form .
Outline the crown on the fabric. Fabric should stretch across the form. Cut it out with a 1 cm seam allowance all around the pattern. Reduce the height of the crown in lining- about 1 cm in the base.
Tube scarf: plan out its height and width. If you want to make a tight one like I do, then its circumference should be a little bigger than your head size. The softer the fabric the more floppy the scarf will be. If you use a stiff type of fabric, it’ll be forming more strictly. If you want to be able to wrap the scarf around your neck twice, you’ll need at least 110 cm of circumference (check how much you need by wraping measuring tape around your head and neck). Its height should be about 30-50 cm. Prepare a rectangle which height will be same as the scarf’s, and its length same as circumference of the scarf. Outline it on the fabric in such a way that the material will stretch lengthwise. Cut it out with 1 cm seam allowance all around the pattern.
Mittens: Place your hand on the paper while deflecting the thumb pretty hard to the side – so that there won’t be an acute angle between your hand and thumb. Outline your wrist and your hand in such a way that there will be about 1,5 cm of space left – it will be needed for the seams and for the lining. Outdraw the form on the fabric, so that the material will stretch across the hand. Cut it out with 1 cm seam allowance only at the bottom of the wrist.
If you want to add the ribbing, cut out two rectangles from the fabric, which height will be 2 x of the ribbing height. And which width will be 2 x of the mittens’ width form in the wrist – 4 cm. After sewing it all up, the size of ribbing should be a little bit tighter than the mitten’s size in the wrist part.
Fold the very edges of the crown in such a way, that the triangles 1 and 2 will cover each other on the one side. Do the same thing with 6 and 5 on the other side. Sew up the outer edges of these triangles using an overlock.
Now fold another moduls in such a way, that the triangle 2 will cover with triangle 3, and 4 with 5. After sewing up their edges you’ll receive 2 halves of the hat, bounded together in the middle. Fold those two halves together and with one seam join the side edge and the top of the hat, while going through all the triangle’s tops.
Do the exact same thing with the lining. If you don’t have an overlock then seam with a zigzag stitch, so that it’ll be elastic. Try not to stretch the fabric, then the stitch won’t get flowy.
After sewing it all up, turn the outer part right side out and leave the lining on the left side. Slide the lining on the outer part of the hat and pin the edges together.
Now sew the edges all-round together and leave a small opening at the back of the hat not sewed up – it’ll be used to turn the hat right side out ( you can leave this opening earlier on the lining, if you want to). Sew while not stretching the edges. To make it easier, lay the material under the presser foot of a sewing machine in such a way, that it will be inside of the hat.
After sewing it all up , turn the hat right side out through the opening. Then sew up this hole on the regular machine or do it by hand ( it’ll be visible on the outside ). Put lining inside the hat, done!
Tube scarf sewing:
Put the lining on the main material, so that their right sides will touch each other. Sew up the upper and the bottom edge of the scarf – you’ll receive a “tube”.
Fold the “tube” halfway while pulling one of the not sewn edges inside. Put your hand inside through the left hole , grab the edge of the right hole and pull it inside. Then equalize their edges. You’ll receive a half shorter, double thick “tube”. Pin together non-hemmed edges and sew them. Leave about 8 cm width hole not sewed up. It’ll help you to turn the scarf right side out.
Turn the scarf right side out – you’ll receive a target look of it. Now you need to join the edges of the hole together, while folding the surpluses inside. Sew them up together as close to the edge as possible – this seam will be visible. The tube scarf is ready ! Quick, huh?
Edging such a type of rounds while sewing mittens with overlock takes some real gymnastic skills . If you’re not an overlock’s virtuoso I suggest sewing with a zigzag stitch on a regular machine. Mittens have got a lining as well, which means that the edges of a fabric don’t need to be hemmed. But if you choose to do it using an overlock, you should first practice doing the rounds- it is necessary to smooth out fabric towards the blade.
put two layers of lining together and sew up the edges. Do the same thing with the main fabric. In the picture below mittens on the right side are sewed by using a blade. On the left side they are made without using it – it doesn’t look as neat and the other one, but it is much easier. One of the mittens I’ll sew with a ribbing. The other one I’ll finish in the same way as I did with a hat. Choose the option which you like best.
Fold the ribbing halfway along and sew up the edges (the fabric should be stretchy across the “tube” which you’ll receive after sewing up – in the picture below in the up and down direction). Now turn the “tube” right side out halfway, so that the seam will be inside, between 2 layers of fabric.
Turn the mitten made from the main fabric right side out and leave the lining on the left side. Put the lining inside the mitten so that they wrists’ edges will cover.
Now put ribbing on the mitten, so taht all raw edges of lining, main fabric and ribbing will cover. Sew up all the 4 edges using an overlock. Placing the presser foot inside of the mitten will make it way easier – like in the picture below.
After sewing the ribbing , unwind it . Finished!
If you prefer the option with no ribbing then turn the main side of the mitten right side out and leave the lining on the left side. Insert the mitten inside of the lining so that the wrists’ edges will cover. Place the presser foot inside of the mitten while sewing up the edges – like in the picture below. Leave a small hole unsewed – it will help you to turn it right side out afterwards ( you can also leave it on the lining side while sewing it).
Pull out the mitten from the lining and turn everything right side out through the hole.
Insert the lining into the mitten. Sew the hole while putting the surpluses inside ( this seam will be visible). In case not to get the lining rolling out while taking of the mittens, attach it to main fabric at the top of the thumb and at the top of your middle finger, sew by hand. The mittens are ready – the most difficult part I think.
Pull the hats down over your ears, put the scarves on your necks and there you go! If you won’t have any ideas for gifts in December – VOIL À! Last year Asia, one of my trainees, sewed 16 hats as Christmas gifts for her friends. And most of them are still wearing those! So yeah, I recommend it :).
This tutorial has been prepared for you by Janek: