Ta-daah! Today I’m presenting to you a second tutorial from “for her & him” series. I’ve never been so excited about a tutorial that I’ve made. But it’s all because I’ve been in a “parrot mode” lately and I feel so delighted every time I see something in super-bright colors. This time Mati and Nicole were posing for the pictures of final results. Mateusz is a miracle man who made my new blog working and made it look exactly how I desired to, so I’m very greatful to him for that. Mateusz besides making websites and mechanical hands (!) does a couple of other cool things- check it out HERE. And Nicole is that type of a person whose laughter makes you laugh straightaway as well. And she’s smiling a lot lately, because she’s begun doing her dream job – being a midwife.
Before we start, I’d like to just add that: < breakdown> yes, i know that there’s a misspelling in the print. I thought that “Princess Consuela Bannahammock” is a completely made-up phrase, so I wasn’t even wondering about its spelling. One of my course attendants, who was intrigued by this phrase, yet didn’t get it, typed it in Google, and then she understood where it all comes from. Same time I realized how it should be spelled correctly. Well, let’s just say whatever to that and “that’s how it supposed to be”, “that was made on purpose” ;). So if anyone asks- yes, I wanted an A instead of O, that’s right. At least it’s not such a bummer like “dark prices” instead of “dark princess” on lady’s T-shirt from House (polish clothing brand) that I’ve made at the beginning of my career. Enough of the prologue, let’s get it started!
For one hoodie you’ll need:
In the previous post you’ll read about creating a pattern (LINK). If you’ll be making a thermal transfer print on the knitwear fabric which is made from cotton, then you need to steam it first- best way is to wash it in 50 Celsius degrees, so that the knitwear will shrink out. Cut out all the elements from the knitwear and from the ribbing. Additionally, cut out the hood’s pattern out from the lining- for the inside part of the hood I’ve used a rib knit fabric in a contrastive color.
We’ll start with preparing the print. I’ve used the flock foil- a thermal transfer material, it’s a little convex with a fluff on it, similar to the one that peach’s peel has got. To cut a pattern from this type of foil you’ll need a ScanNcut plotter. If you don’t have one, you can also make print by using a paint- you can read more about it in one of the previous posts (LINK).
The Easiest way to prepare graphic for the print is to make an inscription – you will need some computer graphic design tool. Best fonts are to be found on this site: Dafont.com . But if you like my prints you can use the PNG file enclosed below. With Mateusz we are preparing new feature on the blog, so in short time I will attach all the graphic, that I’ve made, to the posts in various formats (JPG, SVG, EPS ect.)
I’ve prepared the inscription and imported this file into the scanner. Remember to prepare the mirror image of the graphic! Place flock-foil on the transportation-mat with the shiny surface to the mat, and matt surface upwards. First I’ve tested settings of the knife, just to cut only the flock foil and leave the transportation foil whole. After about a minute of cutting, the transfer was ready. With a pin I’ve detached the flock foil from transportation foil in the corner, and I’ve removed unnecessary elements, only leaving the inscription on the transportation foil.
I’ve placed inscription on the sweatshirt’s front, so that the slick, shiny layer of transportation foil will be on the top and the flock layer will be underneath.
Using a printing press (my newest purchase ) I’ve stuck the transfer- 170 Celsius degrees, 20 seconds, medium pressure. You can also do it with an iron (I’ve been doing it before in this way). Set your iron on the temperature a little bit lower than the temperature for cotton ironing. Press the transfer part by part, pointwise for 20 seconds in each place.
When it comes to the flock foil we remove the transportation foil when it cools down (when it comes to the flex foil, remove it while it is still hot). The transfer print is done!
The best way to sew knitt fabric is by using an overlock. When it comes to the cotton terry fabric, which is not very elastic, you can sew on the regular machine – sew with a zig-zag stitch those seams , which will be stretched when wearing the hoodie. Zig -zag make them more elastic. Some elements, like the pocket, you have to sew on the regular machine.
Start with the pocket. Sew on the narrower tape in the middle of the wider one. Cut two strips, which should be little bit longer than the pocket’s opening edge. On the right side of the pocket draw a line with a chalk – 1 cm from the pocket opening. Pin the tape along to this line, so that its edge will touch with the line.
Sew on the tape, do it on the very edge of the wider ribbon. Press the tapes to the inner side of pockets and sew on the other edge of wider tape.
Now overlock the upper edge of the pocket and side edges. Press them with 1 cm to the wrong side. Hide the overlock’s endings under the pressed allowance.
Pin the pocket on the sweatshirt’s front side and sew it on the very edge of previously pressed edges. You’ll be sewing not only through few layers but also on the edge – so “the walking foot” would be very helpful here. This upper transportation presser foot type is made for sewing multilayer seams. It’s got special serrations, which are pressing the fabric from the top. They also work along with serrations in the machine, together they are transporting fabric under the presser foot. Thanks to that, even very thick elements move slightly under the presser foot.
Put the back torso part on the front one, so that they’ll touch with their right sides of fabric. Sew them on the shoulders. Prepare the sleeves. Decide on which one is left and which one is right- when you’re folding the sleeve in half, the front has got a deeper cut sleeve cap.
Pin the sleeves densely with pins up to the armholes and sew them on. There are two ways of sewing sleeves on and you can read more about it in the post about sewing a T-shirt (LINK).
After sewing the sleeves on, fold the sweatshirt again in the way that it’s front and back would match with each other . Fold the sleeves vertically in half. The front and back armhole seams shouldn’t match. With one seam sew the sleeves’ edges and sweatshirt’s sides. Prepare the hood and its lining- lay the hood’s halves on each other so that they’ll touch with the right sides of the fabrics.
Using overlock sew on the hoods ridge edge (the arch, which is on top and back of the hood). Cut the outer layer only with 0,5 cm, but the lining with 1 cm, so it’s a little smaller. If you’re sewing with a regular machine, cut of 0,5 cm along the hood’s ridge edge in the lining, before you sew it.
Turn the lining right side out and leave the outer layer on the wrong side. Slide the surface fabric on the lining and pin the hood’s front edge, then sew it.
Turn the hood right side out and slide the lining to the inside. Press the edge.
Setting metal eyelets:
Usually the metal eyelets and the setting tools are sold together as a kit, along with the instruction. You’ll also need a scalpel and a hammer.
Plan the hole placing. Then cut a fabric in this place using a scalpel- cut a small hole, a lot smaller than the metal eyelet – if the hole will be too big the grommet might fall off during the washing. Cut the hole only in the surface layer of fabric (leave lining uncut).
Prepare sturdy surface (support), a setting grommet plier and the male and female end of grommets. Place the male grommet on the sturdy surface and insert it from the right side into the cut hole, so it pushes though to the back (pull the fabric heavily while doing that). The washer portion (the female piece) is placed over the portion of the grommet sticking out through the hole. Place grommet plier inside the portion of the grommet sticking out. Strike the top of the punch with a hammer until the male end of the grommet folds tightly around the female side of the grommet. Done!
Sew the lining and hood’s surface along to the front edge, in the distance of 3,5 – 4 cm, making a tunel for the string. Slide the hood into the sweatshirt’s neck opening – sweatshirt should be on its wrong side, and the hood on its right side. Sew it on, so that the front hood’s edges will touch each other exactly in the middle of the front neckline.
The ribbings! Since my rib knit fabric, which color matches the knit fabric, is too thin I used some kind of a trick. Here it is: Inside of the cuffs I’ve sewn a stronger ribbing in a different color (it’s got an exactly same pattern as the surface layer). Fold the ribbings in half to sew the edge of a double ribbing height.
Then turn them up in half, hiding the seam and a possible additional layer inside of the cuff.
Do the same thing with the bottom ribbing.
Slide the ribbing into the sleeves and into the hoodie’s bottom, so that the edges of hoodie and cuffs will touch with the raw edges.
Pin the cuffs to the sleeves, spreading evenly the difference in cufs and sleeves circumference. Pin on the inner side. Do the same with bottom cuff. Sew the edges with cuffs. While sewing stretch cuffs to the circumference of the sleeves (or bottom of sweatshirt). If you’re sewing on the regular machine, do it with a zig-zag stitch. Sew in such a way, that the presser foot is placed on the ribbings.
Prepare the string. Cut the right amount of it, and also two pieces of tapes, which were sewn together previously. Place the end of the string on the tape, fold the tape in half and sew its edges by hand while hiding the end of the string inside of it. While sewing you have to sew through the string as well.
Turn the hoodie to the right side. Using the safety pin pull the string through the eyelet, inside the tunnel around the hood opening.
The hoodie is ready! Remember not to go on the plane if “there is something wrong with the left phalange!”
This tutorial has been prepared for you by Janek