Today I’m giving you an instruction of how to copy a pattern from leggings and on Friday I’ll show you a step by step sewing tutorial. This is what you’ll need:
First prepare your leggings: press them carefully and fold halfway, so that the front leg will be on the top. It might be a little narrower than the back one, so pin the inner edge of the leg, making sure the seam will be on the edge. Then mark the side by pinning the edge of the leg all along- it should be a straight line. Pin each leg separately. Between the edges, the front leg’s fabric should be flat. Make sure that the front crotch line ( the arch in the crotch) is not wrinkled. The back of waistband should be sticking few centimeters out from the front one.
In the centre of the paper draw a straight line, which length will be same as the side edge of the leggings.
Put pinned leggings against it, so that they’ll cover with the line. Outdraw the leg’s contour and the upper edge of the waist. Lift back part of the waistband, and outdraw its front part underneath. Mark the width of the waistband.
Remove pins from the inner leg’s edges. But keep them on the sides. Fold the leggings, so that the back will be on the top. Put them against the other side of the line and outdraw the edge. Pay attention if the back leg curls to the inside (where the arrows in the picture are). If it does, then extend the leg in this place as much as the seam curls up to the inside.
Mark the back waistband’s width. Between the edge of the waist and the back crotch line should be a right angle (90 degrees), or an angle close to this one. So after sewing up, the edge of the back waist will be straight.
Draw a slash line between the waist and legs (green line on photo below). It’ll be a very soft arch, or even a straight line. But make sure that the edges of waist and croth lines will cross each other in the right angle (90 degrees). If they won’t , then you can change a little the line’s shape by sticking out the edge forward or upwards a little, and changing it into soft arch at the crossing.
Now decide on the leggings’ length. Put your leggings on and measure yourself from the waistband, down to your hips and downwards till the desired length. Measure the side line of leggings on the pattern. If you’ll lengthen the original pattern, draw the leg’s bottom line (the green line at the leg’s bottom in the picture) in the right angle (90 degrees) to the side line .
Now measure the length of the front leg’s inner edge. Then starting from the bottom, measure this length on the inner edge of the back leg. If the back line is too long, lower the back’s crotch line (lengthen the arch in the crotch downwards the leg, in the picture below- to the left). If it’s too short ,what actually shouldn’t happen, lengthen the back crotch to the side( in the picture below- upwards), it’ll lengthen the leg’s line as well.
Now measure the slash line’s length between the waist and leg, and the waistband’s height. You’ll cut waistband pattern out as separate piece of rectangular shape.
A little info for precise ones: in the picture below you can see that the back croth line is longer and softer arch than the front one. Usually it is like this with pants: the back facing is actually a lot longer from the front one. But it’s often also a sharper arch. In leggings, which are sewn with very elastic fabrics, both arches can be soft. It’s because the fabric will stretch on the body anyways.
Cut the leggings pattern out from the paper. Cut out the original strip for the waistband. Prepare the strip pattern separately – it should be a rectangle with dimensions : 2 x of measured strip’s width and 2 x of measured length of slash line between waist and leg.
The arrow on the side’s line stands for the straight grain- the line which goes along the fabric, in parallel to the fabric’s original eges. While cutting patterns out from the fabric, add the seam allowance – 1 cm on each edge except for bottom. At the bottom of legs add 3 cm, you need more in this place to make a fold, which will be legs’ finishing. But more about it in the next post .
This tutorial has been prepared for you by Janek