Obrazek nagłówka




Here’s a tutorial which was made totally spontaneously. An oversized t-shirt with a transfer, rhinestones and  rolled hem neckline.

Few days ago Małgosia and Maciek from EMB Systems asked me to lead a presentation for polish dealers of Brother’s company- about use of ScaNcut in sewing and in fabric art. I already know a lot about thermo-transfers and appliqués but there’s one more topic left to do – rhinestones.  And to be honest this was a tough one for me since I’m not a huge rhinestones fan. But in the end I decided to make my niece Nina happy and create a dress with rhinestones for her. On the one hand I wanted to  make this little girl happy but on the other hand I wanted to create something which would be right  with my esthetic sense – so it definitely wouldn’t be a PINKY HEART, which Nina wished for when I asked her. In the end, just before I started sewing, I thought that to deal with a pinky heart somehow I have to make something which I’ll be satisfied with in the first place. So I came to a conclusion that if I’ve wanted to make a tutorial about oversized t-shirt (which will be a background for our summer experiments with dying) since a long time, then why not to combine it with rhinestones?

So today I present to you an oversized t-shirt and rhinestones,  which are actually taken with a pinch of salt. And for the big presentation I prepared pinky hearts, with an easy mind. Next week I’ll publish the whole presentation on the blog.


To sew a t-shirt you’ll need:

  • 0,7 m-1,5 m of jersey fabric, it all depends on how wide your fabric and t-shirt are – make a pattern and check how much you’ll need. If you will be able to fit t-shirt pattern twice on fabrics width, then 0,7 m of jersey is enough. If not, you will need more fabric. Choose the type of knit fabric that is rolling on edges.
  • pattern paper, ruler, pencil,
  • tailor’s scissors, tailor’s tape measure, tailor’s chalk, pins, threads,
  • optional – roller cutter and self-healing cutting mat.


For a transfer you’ll need:

  • ScaNcut machine,
  • a piece of flex foil,
  • ScanNcut Rhinstone Starter Kit and hotfix rhinestones (there are silver, gold and pale pink ones in the kit),
  • paper adhesive tape ( a blue one because its glue is not too strong).





1. Prepare a pattern of half of a t-shirt- you can see how to do it in the one of previous posts (LINK).

2. Remake the pattern to adapt it to the t-shirt you’ll be making. I’ll give you dimensions of my t-shirt (36/38), but you can change each of those as you like:

  • A -Figure out the neckline’s width. Measure half of this width from t-shirt’s centre line to the shoulder (A = 13 cm). Draw an arch of front neckline- from the marked width on the shoulder , to the neckline’s lowest point (at a right angle to the t-shirt’s centre line), and back neckline, 3 cm shallower,
  • – lengthen the bias of the shoulder (don’t change its tilt angle) to the desired length of the sleeve (B = 28 cm , measuring from the end of original t-shirt’s shoulder it’d be 22 cm- this sleeve’s length is a little big, but that’s because I’m planning on rolling it up twice).
  • – at a right angle add a desired width of the sleeve, it should be half of the circumference. Most important don’t make it too tight-it doesn’t look good in oversized t-shirt (C = 16 cm)
  • – figure out the t-shirt’s length and add 5 cm for the trimming. Measure it from the highest shoulder’s point – on the body it’s a curve between your neck and shoulder – measure this length in front, through the bust line. On the pattern HSP it’s the highest point between the neckline and shoulder.(D = 65 cm)
  • E – Figure out the t-shirt’s bottom width. Mine is loose on the hips, so the bottom’s width should be at least 1,5 cm bigger from the 1/4 of hip circumference. (E = 25 cm)
  • Draw the side line. Start drawing a straight line at a right angle to the line of the sleeve’s width (C), and draw a second line at a right angle to the bottom’s width (E). Those lines will cross under the armhole, draw there a soft arch between them. Arch should begin 5 – 6 cm from the sleeve’s width line (C).

3. A pattern for half of the t-shirt is ready.

4. Redraw this pattern and add a mirror image of it. Separately prepare the front (dark grey, lower neckline) and the back (light grey, narrower neckline). While cutting patterns from the knit fabric, add 1 cm of seam allowances on the shoulders, on the side and on the neckline (dark grey contour). On the t-shirt’s bottom and on the sleeve’s edges the seam allowance is already included in the pattern. While cutting, remember that there will be also needed a knitwear strip for the neckline finish. The strip will be cut across from the knitwear, with dimensions of ca 6 cm x 60 cm.





We’re sewing with an overlock or on the regular machine, with a zig-zag stitch. Lay the front and back of the t-shirt together with their right sides touching inside. Sew the shoulders and sides. If you’re sewing on the regular machine, you must cut the seam allowance on the arch between sleeve and side seam.  Cut the allowance crosswise every 1 cm, the cuts should end maximum 3 mm  from the stitch. This will prevent wrinkling around this seam after turning t-shirt right side out.




Neckline finish:

We’re going to finish the neckline with the same fabric that is used for the whole t-shirt. And because knit fabrics roll only horizontally or vertically, we’re going to add a strip, which is cut across fabric. Before you start cutting make sure that its longer edges will be rolling.

More details ,about measuring the size of welt and about sewing it on, you’ll find in previous posts( dress LINK, t-shirt LINK). In short: measure the circumference of front and back neckline, in a 1 cm distance  from the edge of fabric (here’s where you will make a seam when sewing welt). Reduce this size by about 12%- it’ll be the neckband’s length. Its width is 2 x of welt width + 2 cm for seams. And because we want the welt to roll, then it has to be a least 1,5 cm wide, what gives us  (2 x 1,5 cm) + 2 cm = 5 cm.

Lay the band in such a way, that the edges will roll towards the outside (most of the time it’s rolling out to the right side). Fold it in half and sew the shorter edges. Then iron it along in half, so that the seam will be inside.




Pin the neckband.  The t-shirt should be on its wrong side. Pin the band inside of the neckline, so that raw edges both of the neckline and band will match together. Spread excess fabric of the neckline evenly between the pins.




Sew on the welt. While sewing, place the pressing foot on the band- it’ll help you in having its width under control. Stretch the band to the neckline’s circumference size gently while sewing, so that the neckline will be plain underneath. Be careful to not stretch out the neckline. If you’re sewing on the regular machine, after sewing it up, cut the seam allowance to the width of 0,5 cm.




At the end of an overlock stitch make a small knot. Turn the t-shirt right side out. Press the ribbing with a steam to flatten it.




Now prepare a roller-cutter, self-healing mat or very sharp scissors. Cut off a very slim strip from the very edge of the welt. I’ve pulled out the threads from the ribbing  binding  stitch, because I’ve used contrastive colors previously and they didn’t look so good in here.




Roll the ribbing with your fingers in the place, where the binding is sewn (where I’ve pulled out black threads) and sew rolled part by hand, to prevent the seam from rolling out. Now pull the neckline few times – it’ll make the knitwear roll. In the beginning it may be rolling out- then you can damp it with a steam from iron to make the effect bigger, but after few washings it’ll be rolled permanently.




Sleeves finish:

Very easy- roll out the sleeve twice for about 2-3 cm. It’ll create a cuff. To prevent it from rolling out , fix it by sewing it in 4 places: two seams in the centre of the cuff’s width, front and back (make  short  stitch, along the folded edge – photo 3 below),  and two seams on top and at the bottom of the sleeve (here make a seam along to the previously made overlock stitch, and also close to the folded edge).




The bottom finish:

To make a pleat at the bottom , roll its edge about 5 cm (2 x pleat’s width +1 cm of seam allowance) from the wrong side towards the right side (photo 1 below). Now fold the rolled part in half, rolling the raw edge again towards downside (photo 2 and 3). Pin the raw edge and the folded edge together- there will be 3 layers (photo 3,4,5).




Sew at the very edge of bottom, joining all 3 layers together. Sewing with an overlock, you can cut very little or nothing at all. On the regular machine try to sew as close to the edge as possible, but also in such a way, to catch all the 3 layers with one stitch. Check out some other posts with a pleat ( maybe different pictures will be more clear for you DRESS, T-SHIRT, BLOUSE). Press the pleat on the right side, just like the ribbing.




I’ve decided to cut the pleat, just like in the neckline finish- if I’ve decided to make rolled raw edges, they will be everywhere then  ;) The t-shirt is ready for a print !





I’ve found an image of Little My on Google images and the font is from Dafont.com. The crown and sceptre I drew by myself. The image below is ready to download but unfortunately, without the Little My. When it comes to images that are found online, everything is fine if it’s for a  personal  use, but sharing them- that’s a different story. So you’ll have to draw in “your inner princess” by yourself ;P.


grafika bez mi


Turn on the ScaNcut machine and attach the flex foil to the ScaNcut’s transportation mat- with the foil’s glossy side down, towards the mat, and with the matt side of flex foil on top. Now download the image to the plotter. NOTE: you need to add a mirror image, in order to cut the flex foil , because we’re cutting it on the wrong side. Set the blade on 1,7 and the pressure on 2- of course test it first, to see if the blade will cut only the flex foil, leaving the application tape whole.




After cutting , remove all the unnecessary elements of the flex foil. Push the flex foil upwards  with a pin and separate the background from the application tape.




In the next step remove all the elements which are filling the image, such as those in the face part, in the eyes, crown and also those parts which are filling in the letters.




Now figure out where you’re going to attach the image. Turn the application tape upside down, so that the sticky side of application tape, with flex foil will be on the t-shirt. Now we’re going to be attaching the image with iron, which heat is set on 170 Celsius degrees- so a tiny bit less than the temperature for ironing the cotton. Press the iron in one place for about 20 seconds, then move to another piece of transfer and do the same thing. When you’ll attach the whole transfer, rub on it to heat the rest of pieces- always remove the application tape while it is hot! But don’t throw the application tape away yet, it’ll be needed later. It’ll also be a lot easier to do the whole thing with a press ( here’s a LINK , where you can find a small, indoor version of this machine).




To prepare the rhinestones stencil you’ll need the SanNcut Rhinstone Starter Kit. In this kit you’ll find all the elements that are needed for making a pattern. It also includes a special code to the online program, which lets you to adapt the image for rhinestones attaching (it converst graphic into spots). When making an image ready to upload to the plotter, remember that the spots should be of right size-I’ve used 3 mm diameter rhinestones. Now we’re attaching a suede mat for the stencil, to the transporting mat, with the suede side on top. Test the blade- pulled out for about 5 points, and set the pressure on 3- it should only cut the suede, leaving the paper side whole.




After cutting the stencil, cut off a right amount of suede. It’s covered with glue underneath, so we’re removing a paper which is covering this side. Some of the points will fall off themselves, but the rest which won’t, you have to remove yourself. The instruction suggests pulling out the points from the glue side to the other side. Oh God, I think I could die doing that. Look at the next step.




After pulling out 10 spots I got nervous. So I took a blue, adhesive, paper tape – a blue one would be better here, because its glue is not so strong. Place the tape gently with its sticky side on the wrong side of the suede. Don’t push it, so that it won’t get stuck on too much. Now remove the tape very gently, and along with it – the rest of spots.




After removing all the spots, attach the stencil on the special slick mat, which was in the rhinestone starter kit. Strew the rhinestones. Now we’ve got some meditational work to do :P




Using a gentle brush, rub on the rhinestones, so that each of them will be placed  in every single spot hole. Using a spike or tweezers, turn to the right side those, which are on the wrong side.




Prepare the application tape, you’ll find it in the starter kit as well. Remove the tape and…




Attach it to the suede. Rub it on very precisely and gently, so that all the rhinestones will be attached. Remove the foil from the suede and along with it , all the rhinestones. Now they are ready to stick them onto the t-shirt!




Place the tape with rhinestones, so that it covers right parts of the image. Cover the rest of  flex foil parts with a application tape, which you were using before. It’ll prevent the image from melting during pressing rhinestones with iron. With an iron or a press, set on 170 Celsius degrees press the rhinestones very hard for 25 seconds. Then remove the foil gently.




Done!!! And voila, I think that in this case rhinestones look really cool and not trashy at all. They’re even a little contrary- because even small bad girl like Little My like blings :D

So your inner princess is not so nice as well?? YEAH, nothing better than kicking, cursing and biting someone’s calf right? Good luck with sewing and gluing!




This tutorial has been prepared for you by Janek



he was using those machines:

maszynka 2maszynka 3