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rozowa-justyna-glowne

 

Magenta at its best. This time I am going to show you how to make another summer dress. This one is particularly easy to make, moreover, it can be worn in three different ways. Due to its versatile character I dubbed it „a frock for going out”.

 

00

 

Prepare the following: (you see this picture for the last time – i promise ;) ) :

  • Knitted fabric (at least 1,5 metre in width) length of the fabric should be the same as the length of the dress plus 10 cm allowance. Personally i think the punto knitted fabric kind is the best (interlock knitted fabric) as it is relatively easy to work with, it is elastic, and looks good on the body. Another important feature of this kind of knitted fabric is the fact that you can leave its hem unfinished since it doesn’t fray. Note that there are two kinds of punto knitted fabric: the  cotton-polyester blend and  viscose-nylon  blend. The former is usually of poorer quality and in touch it is not as pleasant as the latter. While viscose-nylon blend has a nice touch, has a fine, gentle lustre and follows the shape of the body. This dress can be made of any of them, I’ve chosen the viscose-nylon blend however.
  • Measuring tape,  fabric marker, scissors, threads and pins.

 

Taking the measurement:

  • Set the dress’ length – measure the length between the highest point of the shoulder (at the neck) . The dress I am making is 100 cm long.
  • Next set the sleeve’s length: start measuring from the end of shoulder. For my dress this length is  22 cm (I am going to make it this long, so I could two-fold it).
  • Sleeve’s width –  Measure your biceps – the measurement divide by two and add 3-6 cm (this particular dress looks better with a more loose sleeve). In my dress the sleeve is 20 cm wide.

 

Pattern making and fabric cutting:

Prepare 1/2  t-shirt front pattern (for more information on how to make it look HERE), or use your own, favourite t-shirt to copy the shape; go for the fitted, yet not too tight one (its size should be close to your body dimensions), use it as a base for the pattern.

Fold the knitted fabric in half, and then another time in half (the result being narrow rectangle made of four layers). The fabric should be working across the dress, so in the picture the fabric is more stretchy widthwise.  Place the cutting pattern (two-fold) on the fabric  so that the middle line of the pattern  runs along the folded edge of the knitted fabric.

  • Mark the middle part of the shoulder line (an arrow),
  • extend the line of the shoulder so it has the overall length of the sleeve (measuring from the end of the t-shirt shoulder line).
  • At the end of this line, draw a line at the right angle. This line is the sleeve width, so make sure it has the length of the sleeve width (1/2 of the sleeve circumference + allowance for comfort).
  • At the right angle to the sleeve width line draw a 4-6 cm line (this is for a sleeve folding).
  • Mark the length of the dress starting from top of neck line.
  • Decide the width of the dress bottom hem – it should be tighter than the bottom line of the t-shirt so that the dress has the pencil shape.
  • Draw the sideline; at the sleeve make a curvy line and than continue with a straight line to the bottom-line of the dress. The sideline should not cross the sideline of the t-shirt, yet further towards the bottom-line it should be narrower than the t-shirt bottom-line so that the dress can be pulled up, and rest tight on the hips and give the loose, blouse-like effect above the hips. However, if you want your dress to be loose at the hips  – while drawing the sideline, make dress wider than the bottom of t-shirt (1-2 cm), you will have to make also wider bottom-line of the dress.

 

rozowa-01

 

Draw the neckline starting at the middle of the shoulder-line (you have already marked that point with an arrow) and continue the curved line to the folded edge of the fabric. The curved neckline should meet the folded edge at the point that is higher than a t-shirts front neckline and lower than the t-shirts back neckline. It should be at the right angle to the folding line.

 

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Cut out the pattern adding 1cm seam allowance (at the sides and at the shoulder-line). Don’t add the seam allowance at the bottom-line, neckline and sleeve bottom-line since we are going to leave these hemlines unfinished.

 

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When you unfold the fabric you should get something which looks similar to the shape in the photo below. I corrected slightly my pattern by smoothing the side-line below the armpit – the dress will look better when the sideline is as close to the straight line as it is possible.

 

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Sewing up:

Trust me – you just need a minute and your frock will be ready! Sew up the sides and shoulder-lines and … TA-DA!

Using the overlock sewing machine is the best solution: it will cut off the excess fabric, which is crucial especially at the armpit-line where we want to avoid too much fabric which might result in dress creasing at this seam. If you use the regular sewing machine use a zigzag seam as it gives an elastic seam. Once the sides are sewn, cut off the excess fabric so it is only 0,5 cm left or at the armpit-line make small incisions across the seam allowances so as to make it more flexible and without creasing.

 

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Turn the dress to the right side. All that’s left now is to roll or two-fold the sleeves and fix them in three or four places with hand stitches. I suggest making the stitches at the top of the folding, at the side seams. If the folding still needs more firm fixing add some extra hand stitches from the inside of the folding so that the hand stitch remains invisible.

 

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Try the dress on; the final adjustment you may want to make is to deepen the neckline. To do it: fold the dress’ front in two lengthwise, fix it with pins, draw the new neck-line (NB: it should start at the right angle at the bottom of the neckline otherwise we’ll get a sharp-pointed neck-line) Cut out the new neckline cutting both folded layers simultaneously – this will guarantee the symmetrical neck-line.

 

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The end! Now all you have to do is to choose your favourite way of wearing it. Get dressed and hit the town!

 

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rozowa-justyna-tuba

 

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This tutorial has been prepared for you by Janek:

janek-mini